"A Red Lightie Abroad" continued.
 
Leaving Melboume Nov. 1878, having been there just twelve months, I embarked at Sandridge pier on board the S. S. City of Sydney of the Pacific Mail Co., a fine vessel of 3,400 tons, registered and Yankee built. In 42 hours after leaving Port Philip Head, we landed in Lavender Bay, Sydney. I had often heard the beauty of Sydney Harbor described before seeing it, but as all of you, I have no doubt, have read or heard a better description than I could give, I will content myself by saying that it is almost, if not, the most beautiful piece of scenery I have seen in all my travels. Having a day or two to stay in Sydney, I had an opportunity of seeing the city. Although it is many years older than Melbourne, it is not as large, neither has its streets the modern-like appearance of Melbourne, as they are generally narrow and crooked. Sydney, like Melbourne, can boast of fine public buildings, among which are the Post Office, Town Hall and Cathedral. But, taking the city as a whole, it does not seem to be as go-ahead as Melbourne.

In four an a half days after leaving Sydney, we anchored in the Bay of Auckland, New Zealand. As we had four or five hours to stay, I took a hurried ramble through it. It appeared to me about the same size as Arbroath, & like the other two colonial towns I had been in, it had some very nice buildings. While there, I saw several Maoris, tattooed, walking the streets.

Leaving Auckland, I saw nothing to interest me until I arrived at the Sandwich Islands. The view of Honolulu, on approaching it from the sea, has been variously described. Some having expressed disappointment, while others have gone into raptures over the scene. For myself, I must say that I was greatly charmed with the view of Honolulu & its surrounding greenery as seen from the deck of our vessel. Honolulu has been termed "a city in a grove," which I think is very appropriate. The houses and stores are almost covered with rich green foliage. Only the tops of the higher buildings can be prominent amongst the trees, which are principally the palm, with its large fan shaped leaves. Then about three miles east of the town is a large grove of cocoanut trees, which gives the place a tropical appearance. Immediately behind the town is a range of mountains, rising to a height of between two and tree thousand feet,and on one of them called "Punch Bowl," an active volcano, is a battery of guns.

Landing at the wharf, which is a large and substantial one, having accommodation for the largest merchant vessel afloat, I at once saw signs of the commercial activity of the place, there being no less than seven hundred tons of sugar, besides five or six hundred bunches of bananas waiting shipment. Having paid the two dollars, which is a tax put on everyone landing there, I then got my luggage cleared by customs officers. Outside the shed, I found quite a crowd of vehicles, with their Kanakas drivers looking for a fare. Having hired one, I & my luggage where quickly transported to a nice little cottage in Hotel St., which my friend had rented. For a few days after landing, I felt like a fish out of water as everything was so strange & romantic to me.

However, having started to work on the third day I soon found out that there was nothing romantic about plying the hammer and chisel for nine hours per day in a tropical climate. Until I picked up a few sentences of the native language, I found it rather awkward to get along with the helpers, who were nearly all natives. It was sometimes amusing & laughable to see the way some of them interpreted English. As an instance, I would ask one to bring me a hammer, or such like, and he would come running with a log of wood, quite confident that he had brought what was asked for. The Honolulu Iron Works is the largest establishment in the place. They employed nearly two hundred men. The principal work was building sugar mills.

When I had been there a short time, I, along with the rest of my shopmates, was invited to a party by a sugar planter, the occasion being the starting of a new sugar plant which had been made in our shop. As the plantation was about ten miles from the town, and there being no railways on the island, I had to get initiated into the art of horse riding, which is the popular means of convenience there. Having hired a Hawaiian mustang from a Chinese hostler, over a dozen of us set out about 5 P.M. I had only got outside the town, when my horse began to play off-on with me. I do not know whether it knew I was a greenhorn or whether it was tired out but at any rate, I could not get more than a walk out of him, and in consequence, was left behind. Being provided with spurs, the points of which were half an inch long, I dug them into his sides most unmercifully, but to no avail. Had I been in Arbroath, I would have been brought up for cruelty to animals. However, under the circumstances, I think I was to be excused, as I was left all alone not knowing the road. I was almost on the point of turning home, when two of the party, who had been late in starting, came galloping up, at the sight of which, my horse picked up courage, and kept up along with them, until we reached the Pali or “mountain pass," which is 1,200 feet above the level of the sea. I may mention that the view from this place in daylight is lovely in the extreme. On the right and left are towering peaks of bare rocks, while at the bottom of the precipice, is a beautiful plain, covered with sugar and rice fields, dotted here & there, are the white homesteads of the planters. The road down the Pali takes the shape of a winding staircase and is a little wider than an ordinary sidewalk. Here we had to dismount & lead our horses as it was dark by this time. I felt rather scared, as I thought that every step I took, the horse would be on top of me. However, we managed to get down all safe and landed at our destination about 8 P.M. I then felt more like going to bed, rather than commencing a night of jollity, as I was "all broke up" with my ten mile ride. While there, I had an opportunity of seeing a sugar plantation and mill in working order, and had the process of sugar making described to me.

After spending a few hours there, & enjoying the hospitality of the planter, we again betook ourselves to our noble steeds for the homeward journey. But, as I was not as all keen to undergo another ride like I experienced coming over, my friend and I changed horses. I thought I could get along better with it, seeing it had behaved itself credibly so far. I got along with it very well so far, until within a short distance from the bottom of the Pali where it stood still and would not move. Seeing a Kanaka coming along on horseback, I hitched a rope around my horses neck and tied the other end to his saddle, and in this way pulled him along until I met up with my friend, when I again got back on my own horse. I then made the rest of my way up the Pali dragging my horse behind me. After sitting at the top for nearly half an hour hollering to my friend, I began to get anxious about him, and was on my way down to look for him when I saw him coming up without his horse. He had been trying to persuade it to come up, but seeing it was no use, he left it standing on the trail half way up. We then both mounted my horse, thinking he would drag us along. But he could not see it, so we had to give that up and try turn about. Latter, he would not carry any of us, but stood still like the other one. There was nothing left for us now, but to work our passage home. One of went in front pulling while the other applied a stick from behind. Such were my first experiences in horse riding. I then felt like making a vow that I would never mount a horse again. However, I am glad that I did not, as I afterward enjoyed many a good horse ride while on the island of Oahu.

Among the other pastimes I enjoyed while there was fruit gathering, which is there in great variety and quantity. The first new years day I spent there was on an excursion of this kind. I took a sack along with me, which I filled with mangos and oranges. Back in the valleys, anyone can have all the mangos, limes, guavas, mountain apples and oranges that one cares to carry, as they grow wild. I noticed that very few people avail themselves of this privilege, as they considered it too much trouble.

Getting home from my work in the evening, I had a fine opportunity of studying animal life of the insect species, in the form of cockroaches, mosquitoes, scorpions and centipedes. The mosquito generally received the most attention, being the most numerous. They are the most bloodthirsty creatures that I have had anything to do with. The only way I could get clear of their tormenting sting, while sitting around in the evening, was by keeping myself enveloped in a cloud of smoke, which apparently is the only thing they can't digest.

After I had lived there six or eight months there & all the romance gone, I found life to be very monotonous as they only receive news from the outside world once a month. Mail day is quite an event there. The editor of the Arbroath Guide has said, and I think said truly, that wherever Arbroath men go, there will be found the Arbroath Guide. This I have found to be true, at least in my own experience. Many a time my friend and I while sitting under the Banyan tree at our cottage door, enjoyed a discussion as to the merit of Abbey green improvement, Spink Street crossing etc. We would almost as soon have missed a letter from home as miss the Guide, for in it we would always find out what our friends were about.

The Hawaiian Kingdom is composed of eight islands, the principal ones being Oahu, Hawaii, Maui, and Molakai, the largest of which is Hawaii where the celebrated Captain Cook was killed on this island. There is a large volcano called Kilauea which is always in action. The next in size is Maui, on which there is a mountain 10,000 feet high, the top of which is covered with snow all year round. On this island is the largest volcano in the world, being 17 miles in circumference. A visitor describing the scene, says of it, it is like a bird's eye view of a dead city, half hidden in ashes and carved out of cold gray lava. The island of Oahu, although nearly the smallest, is the most important of the group, being the only one which has a good harbour. On it is situated the town of Honolulu which has a population on over 1,400 inhabitants. The principle buildings in the town are the Kings Palace, Government Offices, Hospital and prison. The streets are, as a general rule, very narrow and crooked, and during the rainy season are very muddy.

Most of the wholesale stores are owned by American or European people, while the retail stores are monopolized by Chinamen. Very few of the natives are engaged in any enterprise. They are naturally very indolent and seem to care for nothing, so long as they get their poi and raw fish, which is their diet. They never use tea or coffee. The poi is made from the taro root, which after being washed, is cooked in the following manner. A round hole is dug in the ground about three feet deep, at the bottom of which is placed a layer of stones, then a layer of dry wood, then again on top of this is placed another layer of stones. The fire being lighted, it heats the stones until they are almost red hot. Damp green leaves are then put on the heated stones. The taro is piled upon them. On the top of the taro is placed more green leaves, bags, sacking, or anything else that is at hand. This will serve to keep in the steam. After being cooked in this manner about an hour and a half, the covering is removed and the taro is put into a bucket of water and washed clean. It is then handed over to the men, who place it on a plank about six feet long, which is hollowed out in the shape of a huge tray. They then pound it with a large stone and add water until it is of the consistency of butter, then it is then put into a large calabash and kept for two days, when it is then fit for use. Having described the cooking of the national dish, I will now explain the method of its consumption. At meal time the family gather around the calabash. Seated on the floor on one side, they have a plate containing onions and salt, and when available vinegar. On the other side, is a dish of raw fish, which to the Kanaka is the greatest of delicacies. Each takes a piece of fish in his hand, and dips it among the pickles. He then helps himself to poi from the family calabash with his fingers. They never use a spoon. The poi is so glutinous, that is sticks readily to the fingers. In this way, one continues to eat about a quart of poi at a sitting, together with about a pound of raw fish. The meal over, they wash their hands and sit down to have a good smoke, all the family smoking from the one pipe, turn about. The children, three or four years of age, are allowed, by their parents to smoke. The present generation of natives conform to civilized modes of dress, and have accepted many foreign customs. For myself, I think they have adopted most of the white man's vices, but few of his virtues. They are very fond of intoxicating liquor. By law they are prohibited from the use of it. Anyone found selling it to them are under a penalty of $500.00 fine. They have a drink called ava which they make themselves, but to see it made, is enough to sicken anyone, let alone drink it. It is made from a root which grows on the islands. About a dozen of them sit around in a circle with a pitcher in the center. They then start chewing the root, spitting the juice into the pitcher. When the pitcher is filled, the contents are left to ferment, until it is fit for use. In drinking it, it affects them in somewhat the same way as opium does a Chinaman, giving them pleasant dreams.

As most of the natives are very poor, their houses are generally wretched hovels. A great many of them still inhabit old fashioned grass huts, which are constructed with a framework of bamboo and covered with native grass. In most cases, furniture is very scanty, often consisting only of a platform about a foot from the ground covered with two or three layers of matting, which is all the bed they have. The rules of etiquette are not by any means observed, as all the family sleep huddled together in one corner.

One very sad feature about the natives of these islands is the fact that the most loathsome of all diseases, namely leprosy, is very prevalent among them, there being 720 cases up to last January. An officer is employed by the government to report cases, and after they are found, the poor unfortunates are at once removed to the neighboring island of Molokai on which a settlement has been established for their accommodation and seclusion. I think one of the saddest sights I have ever seen was seeing about half a dozen of them being removed from the station house to the vessel which was to carry them to the island. They were followed by a crowd of friends and relatives, who kept up the most dismal wail I have ever heard. They knew it was the last time that they would see them on this earth, unless they also took the disease. Some of the lepers looked very repulsive, their faces being sadly disfigured. The disease, I believe, has been brought on, by their filthy habits, although some of it has been imported by the Chinamen. There are two characteristics, however, about the natives which I think is highly commendable, namely, their hospitality and honesty. White men traveling in the country are always made welcome to the best they can afford, and they do not grudge to put themselves to a good deal of trouble. Then as to their honesty, I may say, that as general rule nobody locks their doors. Although, my friend and I were away at work all day, and our Kanaka washer man coming and going as it suited him. We never missed an article. No doubt, they are partly scared into honesty, as the law is very strictly enforced and there is no chance of escape, the island being so small. You can see from the one side to the other when up on the mountains. As the Kanaka is so lazy, he would feel punishment very keenly, as all the prisoners are kept hard at work, repairing the streets etc. Any of them inclined to be fractious, are kindly accommodated with a heavy chain and ball attached to their ankle. The police force is composed of natives who are as lazy as their inmates. I have seen them carrying a box along with them to squat down on in any convenient comer.

At nearly every street corner are to be seen about a dozen women sitting on the sidewalk making flower wreaths, which are worn by both sexes round their neck.

I may mention that it is quite a picturesque sight to see a party of native women on horseback, with their queer riding habits. They are mounted astride and are splendid riders. They stick to the horse as though they were part and parcel of it.

The governmenting of the islands was at one time divided among several chiefs. But since the days of the great Kamehameha I, they have all been governed by one king. The present King is Kalakaua who is a full bred native. He is, at present, on a tour around the world. I had the honor to be invited to a party at which Kalakaua was a guest. I found him to be a jovial fellow and good company. He does not stand on his dignity to any extent.

I was going to say, that I had the pleasure, but will say the satisfaction, of witnessing the hula-hula, or native dance, which to the natives is considered a necessary part of their education, although now forbidden. Twenty or thirty men and women were fantastically dressed with scarves bound around their waist and crowned with garlands of flowers. Their wrists and ankles were also covered with flowers. The dancers formed a circle, each holding a small calabash ornamented with feathers and seeds inside which they use as a tambourine or rattle. They then made some of the most frantic movements I ever saw. There is a certain glamour or novelty about it, and one may be excused for lingering in such uncivilized scenes, as they are such rare events in life. But for my own part, I should say, that it is enough to have seen it once. Amongst the dancers were several Samoan islanders who do not seem to be so well up in civilization as their Kanaka cousins. I noticed nearly all the men had large holes cut in their ears in which they carry their smoking pipes. But on this occasion they had a bouquet of flowers in them. As a commercial kingdom, the islands are going ahead fast, a proof of which is that last year there was exported from the different islands over 2100 tons of sugar, 2138 tons of rice, and 12,369 bunches of bananas, which are the staple product.

One existing evil that the inhabitants of Honolulu have to contend with is the want of drainage, which makes the town very unhealthy, making malaria fever very common.

After being there about fourteen months, I got tired of the monotonous life, besides I found the climate did not agree with me. Accordingly, I made up my mind to try California. Having paid a dollar for a passport, which is necessary before leaving the Islands, I embarked on board the S.S. Zealandia of the Pacific Mail Co. & after an uninteresting passage of nine days, I landed (in what I have heard termed) “The City of the Golden Gate and Land of the Setting Sun." The Golden Gate is the name given to the entrance to the bay from the sea.

Next: On to San Francisco
 

Use of text and photos prohibited without permission from the San Anselmo Historical Society.