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San Anselmo's first depot, circa 1880s. View is to the east from, approximately, the present-day intersection of Sir Francis Drake, Center Boulevard and Greenfield Avenue.
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By Wade Stevenson
Former Historical Commission Member
When the North Pacific Coast Railroad (NPC) began work on its line through
Marin in the early 1870s, the county was sparsely populated, and the area which
later became the town of San Anselmo consisted of a handful of houses scattered
among ranches, farms, woodlands, and meadows.
The NPC constructed a narrow-gauge line which left Sausalito and followed the
shoreline of the bay. A trestle carried the rails from Pine Point to Strawberry
Point on the opposite side of Richardson's Bay. The roadbed then traversed a
steep hill and entered Corte Madera from the east. From there it ran northward
through the Ross Valley to the key junction of San Anselmo.
At San Anselmo the train branched into two lines: one heading eastward to San
Rafael; the other traveling toward Tomales and then on to the commercially
lucrative Sonoma County timber lands, with Cazadero as the endpoint. Ferry
service was provided between Sausalito and San Francisco. The San Anselmo to San
Rafael spur opened on July 25, 1874. A line to Tomales was operating the next
year. Passengers could reach San Francisco from Junction as San Anselmo was
then called in under an hour.
In the early years, San Anselmo was a key freight transfer point, a place for
trains to take on water and fuel and a location for summer homes and vacation
camps. Despite the promotional efforts of real estate developers and the
railroad, the area maintained a decidedly rural character. Population growth was
slow. From 1887 to 1890, San Francisco auctioneers Easton, Eldridge & Co.
sold about 50 "villa sites" in the Sunnyside tract (Bolinas Avenue area), one of
the earliest San Anselmo subdivisions. The railroad advertised the homesites in
its stations and ferryboat cabins, and ran 25-cent round trip excursions to
groups of potential buyers.
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San Anselmo's second depot, circa 1900. Drake was an unnamed county road.
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A picture of San Anselmo's train station, circa 1900 (shown at right), taken
from Red Hill, shows a depot, water tank, and freight shed clustered together on
the east side of the creek, the three structures standing across the county road
(now known as Sir Francis Drake Boulevard) from what would later become Bank
Street and the First Bank of San Anselmo. A candy/grocery store operated at
various times by Herman Zopf and Mrs. Mary Needham faces the station across the
road. The Presbyterian Seminary looms in the background. No other buildings are
discernible. This was San Anselmo's second train depot.
The first station, a lonely outpost, had been located closer to the Hub which
by 1900 was populated with gravel bins, a freight shed, a corral and horse barn,
and a section house.
The Electric Years
By the turn of the century, the narrow-gauge steam trains had seen better
days. Timber to the north had played out. Passenger travel, particularly in West
Marin, was an adventure. One of San Anselmo's most prominent landowners and real
estate developers, former Marin County Sheriff and Tax-Collector James Tunstead,
suffered serious injuries when the rail car he was riding in fell from a trestle
near Point Reyes on June 21, 1903. He was luckier than two fellow passengers who
died in the accident.
In 1902, the NPC was purchased by electric utility pioneers John Martin and
Eugene de Sabla, Jr., and renamed the North Shore Railroad. Tracks in southern
Marin were converted to standard gauge; a high voltage transmission line was
strung from the Sierra Nevada to a power station at Alto (across from Mill
Valley); trains were powered by an electric third rail; and the railroad boasted
sophisticated switching equipment.
This was the beginning of the inter-urban train-ferry service that would
featured heavy rail cars and provide transportation for generations of commuters
to the city. At first the rolling stock consisted of wooden rail cars adapted
for electric service. Later, combination steel and aluminum cars were added to
the line. Trains averaged 25 to 30 miles per hour, with top speeds on
straightaways of 50-60 mph. For some years after electric interurban train
service opened on October 17, 1903, the railroad continued to run narrow-gauge
steam trains on the same route, necessitating the placement of a rail positioned
between the standard gauge tracks.
In 1907 the railroad, now owned jointly by Southern Pacific and Santa Fe, was
consolidated with other lines and reborn as the Northwestern Pacific Railroad.
Refugees from the Earthquake
The combination of reliable electric trains and the 1906 earthquake spurred
development in San Anselmo. In the wake of the quake, some of the summer homes
became permanent residences, campgrounds filled with refugees, new subdivision
maps were drawn, and a real estate row formed across from the railroad track.
With the prospect of permanent residents and a growing economy, the City
incorporated in 1907 by a slim margin of 83 to 79. In 1908 the electric third
rail was extended to Fairfax, and in 1913 its last extension reached Manor, just
west of Fairfax.
During the electric era, San Anselmo maintained its prominence as a major
junction on the system. Southbound rail cars entering San Anselmo from San
Rafael and Manor would be coupled at the hub before heading down Ross Valley and
across the tidal flats to Sausalito.
Northbound trains uncoupled at San Anselmo, with San Rafael trains heading
down the "Miracle Mile" corridor, and Manor trains traveling toward Fairfax
along what is now Center Boulevard. Trains ran every half-hour during the
commute rush. A 1913 schedule shows a 58-minute commute from San Anselmo to San
Francisco, including a 32-minute ferry ride: In it the No. 413 departed San
Anselmo at 6:37 a.m. and arrived in Sausalito at 7:00 a.m.; there commuters
hopped on a ferry which left Sausalito at 7:03 a.m. and docked in San Francisco
at 7:35 a.m.
Lansdale Station was the first San Anselmo stop of southbound trains
emanating from Manor. After Lansdale Station, the train proceeded to Yolanda
Station, downtown San Anselmo, and Bolinas Avenue before heading toward
Sausalito with stops at Ross, Kentfield, Escalle, Larkspur, Baltimore Park,
Corte Madera, Chapman, Alto, Almonte and its Mill Valley connections, Manzanita,
Waldo, and Pine. In the 1920s and 1930s, the railroad ran a "School Special" to
and from Mill Valley's Tamalpais High, picking up students throughout the Ross
Valley.
The End of an Era
Highway development in Marin in the 1920s and 1930s, along with the opening
of the Golden Gate Bridge in 1937, brought a quick end to interurban train-ferry
service. By 1938 the railroad had asked the California Railroad Commission for
permission to shut the system down. To many Marin residents, abandoning the
railroad meant more than changing modes of transportation, it meant the end of a
way of life.
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San Anselmo's last depot in the 1930s. End of the line for the trains: March 1, 1941.
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In 1939, the Save the Trains and Ferries League, which counted prominent San
Anselmo civic leader F.J. Crisp among its directors, published a leaflet
addressed to "Fellow Commuters and Friends." The leaflet read in part: "we do
not need to remind you of all we may lose; of the advantages of rail and ferry
service and all that it has meant to us; the friendships, the card games, the
times to visit, read, relax, exercise, if you want to even to knit all this
will be lost, never to return."
Schedule reductions and fair increases delayed abandonment, but the line
officially closed in the early morning hours of March 1, 1941. On a wet and
windy February 28th, 1941 saddened train lovers gave their electric interurban a
proper sendoff.
Train historian Jack Farley described the final salute: "It [the train]
stopped and was serenaded at every station. A lot of these guys, even some of
the guys working on the train, had had a snootful." During the 66 years and
seven months that the railroad served San Anselmo the area grew from a junction
in a field to small town U.S.A.
Today, there are a few clues that railroads once ran through town, in the
neighborhood names Yolanda Station and Lansdale Station and the raised
roadbed of, and high curbs along, Center Avenue, but most of San Anselmo's train
landmarks have long since disappeared.
The water tank which fed the old narrow gauge steam engines on their journey
from Sausalito to Point Reyes Station and beyond was torn down in 1938. The San
Anselmo Herald noted at the time: "Now the steam engines are gone from the
Fairfax cut-off. The tracks to Point Reyes Station have been torn up. Only
electric trains zip past the tank now and electric trains don't have to stop
for water."
When train service ended in early 1941, San Anselmo's depot was converted to
a bus station. Rails were torn up and train right-of-ways became part of the
town's road network. By the early 1960s, almost everything linking San Anselmo
to its railroad past had been razed, including the train station across from
Bank Street, and the switching tower (Tower No. 4) and Northwestern Pacific
powerhouse building at the Hub.
For what had been a San Anselmo institution, it was an amazing disappearing
act.
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Use of text and photos prohibited without permission from the The San Anselmo Historical Society
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